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The Slowest Known Time Machine

Any external links in this post are included solely on my positive experiences.

My preference is to travel at slower speeds to experience and savour the journey. A comfortable bicycle and bed, a tent, a stove, and a couple of hot meals each day can make for very memorable times in the backcountry. Particularly in winter, in the Rockies, I’ve had difficulty finding enough space to carry everything with typical bikepacking luggage.

I started “modern” bikepacking with various seat, frame, handlebar, and accessory bags about a decade ago. 2016 marked the start of a journey designing, handcrafting, and testing original ultralight bikepacking gear. By the time 2020 Covid restrictions were implemented I’d completed a number of bikepacking races, mostly at a fast-touring pace, including the 2017 Alberta Rockies 700 on a fatbike. In preparation for these events, and also general bikepacking, my focus was on creating integrated systems of custom luggage, racks, and fenders; that were robust, flexible, and required minimal installation and packing/unloading effort and time. In short, by the end of 2019 I’d developed some four season field-tested concepts about how to simplify bikepacking luggage systems with a few small additions and deletions to a bicycle frame, and Bikepackers Foundry unique attachment systems.

In mid-2020 I asked Rollingdale Cycles about creating a custom titanium Pinion – Gates Carbon Drive fatbike with a few unusual features. Only straight tubing in the main triangle, a short titanium tube welded at an angle to the bottom of each seat stay, and no bottle bosses or threaded mounts. Since that time, the custom Rollingdale fatbike and custom luggage systems have become a trusted and highly-capable integration for year-round adventures. The Pinion C 1:12 transmission with DS2 shifter and Gates CDX Carbon Drive systems are extremely reliable and virtually maintenance free.

Fully loaded for a -30C overnighter. The top of the rear rack remains available for more gear. The custom Large HandlebarBag+ holds a NeoAire Xtherm Wide sleeping mat, a 14 section Z-Sol foam mat, and a MSR Hubba NX tent body and fly. All luggage is constructed from Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200. The DIY pogies design is here. A typical winter gear inventory is pictured and described in this blog post. The winter tire combination of Bontrager 4.5″ Gnarwahls with all 45 North XL studs is superb! I’ve only had to replace 3 studs in two winters of riding.

Rollingdale Custom Ti fat bike: Dale Marchand’s bike design and build suits me very well. I really appreciate the predictable handling, and extremely comfortable ride. The chain stay length, wheelbase, and overall geometry yield a very capable machine; with the excellent rollover characteristics and float of 27.5″ wheelsets.

Rollingdale Cycles custom fatbike design. The combination of a Lauf Carbonara fork and Jones H-Loop carbon bar adds about 100 mm of compliance up front, with the PNW Coast suspension dropper adding about 40 mm to the rear. The custom-formed Reform Seymour saddle with carbon fiber rails and shell also results in additional comfort and compliance. Tube diameters: top tube 35 mm, down tube 40 mm, seat tube 35 mm, chain stays 24 mm, seat stays 19 mm. 177 mm rear axle in Paragon Machine Works drop outs. The Q Factor is 206mm with the C 1:12 and Pinion CNC fatbike cranks. Eight millimeters narrower than the P-Line transmission.
The total weight of bike without luggage is ~33#, 14.7 kg, including ~600ml of tire sealant. I prefer the shifter on the left as it allows precise rear braking while non-sequential shifting the Pinon gearbox. The DS2 shifter is precise, intuitive, and reliable…and I can safely ride wearing mitts!

Custom Luggage and Rear Rack: Bikepackers Foundry DIY luggage systems have focused on extremely stable higher-volume components. The 2024 system has been further streamlined to just six bags. DIY High-volume framebag (~16 litres), custom Large HandlebarBag+ (up to 18 litres), two custom Large Straddlebags (up to 3 litres each), and a pair of prototype CompressionPanniers (up to 15 litres each). The framebag has a full length zipper, and ALL other five bags are top-loading with roll-top compression closures. The DIY composite rear rack lowers the centre of gravity and makes for a great ride! I’m a fan of no rubbing, rattles, or dangling and this system delivers.

A high-volume >15 litre framebag opens up many options to pack a bike, differently. Up to 14 litres of water in 3 bladders can be easily loaded and stably carried in this framebag. There remains room at the top for smaller items such as rain gear, tent poles/footprint, spare tube(s), and a spare Carbon Drive belt. The finished and mounted weight of the pictured framebag is about 300 grams. The combination of the Ultra 200 fabric, edge stiffening, and internal composite rigid panels create stability and eliminate bulging in key areas such as the pedal sweep. My preference is to have lots of room when standing pedaling.

Obviously, for winter riding there is no need to carry 14 litres of water. The framebag easily carries a MSR Reactor stove & bowl, most food and toiletries in a small backpack, two large thermos of water, Ti coffee mug (with DIY cosy), spare Carbon Drive belt, tent poles & DIY full-footprint, emergency twig stove, and spare gloves and mitts. The structure and mounting of the bag makes packing a simple load & ride operation.

The prototype CompressionPanniers are low, stable, and completely install or remove in about a minute without tools. The mounted pair weigh less than 350 grams. The right pannier typically holds a Thermarest Polar Ranger -30C sleeping bag in a custom Dynema compression drybag. The left pannier typically holds a closed custom Ultra 200 drybag filled with winter-weight down parka, pants, socks, beanie, and mitts. In the top of the bag are a hard-shell jacket and pants. Both roll-top panniers are then compressed by the raincover lids and hold down straps. While these bags appear very simple from the outside, there are numerous elements that create just enough structure for stability and durability.

DIY composite rack: The rear rack with integrated fender now has more than 3,000 km of backcountry usage and has only had a couple of minor tape repairs from multiple encounters with rocks, trees, and shintangle. I’m very happy with the longer term performance, durability and weight of just 800 grams. The Rollingdale Cycles custom titanium rack mounting tubes are a gamechanger! The tubes allow the rack stays to bear directly onto the bottom of the seat stays. This configuration largely eliminates shear forces. The composite rack stays are pulled into curvature by the front (tripod) attachment point and overall rack dimensions. This creates a reliable friction fit for the rack without any bolting. The integrated 25″ composite fender adds structure to the rack, and helps keep the bike and rider cleaner when riding in sloppy conditions. This design and mounting configuration creates additional width for panniers, without increasing the overall width. The loaded width is typically around 20 inches.

The custom size Large StraddleBags and HandlebarBag+ have really eliminated weight and complexity at the handlebars and fork. The while the HandlebarBag+ can carry the weight and volume of more than 20 freeze dried meals, it’s ideal for high-volume compressible items. The two StraddleBags typically have one or two water bottles, a large Ziploc of riding-food, high volume mini floor pump, and tools/spares. This cockpit configuration allowed me to move the Wahoo mount down onto the frame top tube. Since that move I’ve not had the GPS knocked off the mount while riding narrow and overgrown trails.

If you’re interested in creating your own original gear, here are some questions that may be helpful.

Development Questions:

Can lights, trip computers, and other accessories be repositioned to increase functionality and flexibility? Using Velcro or other ties to mount lights and GPS head units can both greatly simplify and increase the functionality of a bike cockpit.

Luggage systems Development Questions:

How will the element attach to the bike in ways that create structure, and fabric tension? Bikepackers Foundry designs incorporate innovative applications of various types of industrial grades of Velcro. For reference, one linear foot (24 square inches) of VHB backed hook/loop pair weighs less than one ounce. In practice, one foot yields 16 pair of “semi-permanent” mounting points on the bike and matching luggage. Weight is 1.5 grams per pair. This compares very favourably to typical threaded attachment systems, and completely eliminates the potential for cyclic failures prevalent in mechanical connections.

Does the design, construction, and function of the element in any way compromise the rider’s range of motion? If yes, start the design process again.

Is it possible to quickly and completely remove the element (including all mounting points) from the bike? If not, how can semi-permanent mounting points be optimized and concealed? Should rated electrical cable ties (typically 50-175# yield strength, depending on size) be incorporated into the attachment?

What design and function aspects will centralize & lower luggage mass on the bike? A couple of examples: StraddleBags move weight down, back, and off the handlebars. Sloped DIY composite rear racks allows for lower and more forward pannier positioning.

How will the element be used off the bike? Can the design incorporate features to increase functionality and useability? A recent example of this is the HandlebarBag+ which doubles as a high-volume top-loading shoulder bag when not compressed on the bike.

Sara using a HandlebarBag+ (small) off the bike.

Have all wear and noise points been eliminated or minimized?

Is there sufficient volume and weight flexibility in the luggage to accommodate a wide range of usage scenarios?

Has the custom framebag width been optimized for the rider and their pedal sweep?

Can any pieces of existing luggage be eliminated?

Thanks for reading!

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DIY Pogies

Cover image – the pogies are stable and accessible…even when just bike-pushing. :) Each pogie weighs less than 115 grams.

This post outlines creating a simple cardboard cutting template, and sewing a pair of warm lightweight pogies for cold weather riding . The main differences from commercially available pogies are the Velcro mounting and front closure/venting system, and the potential to upcycle worn out synthetic insulated outerwear. Each pogie consists of two halves. Each half consists of an outer and inner fabric layer with insulation sewn in between. The two halves are then joined and finished with edging and Velcro.  The pictured pogies have seen hundreds of uses since Fall 2021, while undergoing several minor changes to accomodate cockpit tweaks such as a dropper post lever cable, and rotary shifter cabling.  Apologies for the lack of sequential contruction pictures. This was a learning by doing project. :)I’ve included pictures and comments on design changes, in hopes that others can avoid them.

If you just want to buy some really warm pogies, check out the ones my friend Doug Coldbike makes!

The Velcro front closure around the handlebar and rear brake hose, which can be opened if hands are too warm. The handlebar has a patch of Industrial Loop Velcro wrapped around it, and the pogie has a length of OneWrap that engages with the handlebar Velcro patch. This system allows for precise adjustments of the position of the pogies to suit a rider.
Out for a training ride on an extremely cold and windy day.

Thanks for reading! Hope you find this post helpful in your DIY practice.

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Seat bag stabilization

Controlling seatbag sway

This DIY project can reduce or eliminate excessive lateral movement in many seat bags.

The two key elements are an appropriately configured structural member placed lengthwise in the bottom of the bag; and a static strap (not elastic) looped under the bag and over each seat rail, that compresses the contents and bag into the saddle rails and underside.   

The above images are of a friend’s bike. She’s a very experienced and capable bikepacker, and was being frustrated by a seat bag that would droop and flop around despite being packed and tensioned correctly.

The solution proposed came out of some of the development work and testing of the Bikepackers Foundry Seat Bag. A. In order to minimize or eliminate sway the distance between the centerline of the bottom of the bag and each seat rail must be kept constant. B. Few, if any, seatbags have enough stiffness to prevent drooping behind the seat.

I wanted to provide a solution that was strong, lightweight, and did not require permanent modifications to the seat bag.

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DIY mug cozy

This project utilizes scraps or upcycled fabrics to create a functional and extremely durable insulated mug cover. At -20 Celsius the cozy will keep a mug of coffee warm for about 30 minutes. The cut list dimensions below are for the pictured mug. The mug can also serve as a backup or primary pot for boiling water.

Finished cozy for a 450 ml titanium cup


ComponentQuantityLength (in)Width (in)
EcoPak – EPX 2001123.5
Hyper D 3001123.5
Climashield APEX 3.6oz1113.5
3/4″ heavy webbing for handle1120.75
Cut list for pictured mug. Adjust sizing as required, leaving enough distance between the cozy and edge of the mug to avoid contact between lips and cozy.
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DIY Ice Probe for fat biking

Cycling on ice can be hazardous or fatal! These ideas are presented entirely at your own risk and expense.

Fat bike sitting on thick older ice, with new thin ice and open water in the background.
DIY Ice Probe strapped to left side of top tube. Fat bike sitting on thick older ice, with new thin ice and open water in the background.

The Nordic ice skating community has developed specific tools for assessing ice thickness. Luc Mehl’s Wild Ice course (highly recommended) was the catalyst for this little project. This blog post is a DIY adaptation of an ice probe sized for carrying on and deployment from a fat bike; without interfering with other gear typically carried for winter camping. While this probe has so-far only had a few trips I’m very impressed with the timeliness and accuracy of the information it can provide.

Ice Probe with 20mm webbing strap attached to yield an effective length of about 160 cm, 60 inches.  The probe has been lightly tossed like a harpoon.  With the new 6 cm ice failing on the first toss.
Ice Probe with 20mm webbing strap attached to yield an effective length of about 160 cm, 60 inches. The probe has been lightly tossed like a harpoon. With the new 6 cm ice failing on the first toss.

The primary components of the ice probe are a shortened segment of aluminum Nordic ski pole, and a length of steel rod. Combined the weight is around 500 grams. Given the anticipated harsh service I opted for creating a single pole that does not extend or retract. The potential for unwanted corrosion of dissimilar metals is minimized (perhaps eliminated) by the separation of aluminum and steel with self-fusing heat shrink tubing around the steel rod. The steel rod is then driven inside the segment of ski pole.

Wouldn't be a Bikepackers Foundry item if there weren't at least two uses.  Ice probe, and bike stand, etc. :)
Wouldn’t be a Bikepackers Foundry item if there weren’t at least two uses. Ice probe, and bike stand, etc. 🙂
A brief video of how I’m using and carrying the ice probe.
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Integrated tent vestibule footprint

This DIY concept is a simple cutting and sewing project to extend the functionality of a tent.  A vestibule footprint can block mud and debris from entering the tent and also provides a larger barrier for moisture migrating from the ground and condensing on the inside of the tent fly.  Any piece of coated fabric will work.  In this example a piece of coated ripstop nylon was used.  The total weight addition is 30 grams.

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Completed vestibule footprint set up on a recent bikepacking trip. 

Design considerations: a. Size the vestibule footprint smaller than the fly to prevent water from pooling on the footprint. b. Fold and sew edges to minimize water and debris accumulations. c. Add a length of elastic cord to hold the footprint in tension.

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8. Breaking camp after a stormy night. Everything stayed dry under the tent fly

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7. Completed tent and vestibule footprint sewn together

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4. Inside corner and edge folding detail prior to sewing onto tent footprint

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2. Preparing to check the drip-line with the fly installed

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3. Laying out the fabric

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1. Original MSR universal footprint

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6. Five mm webbing sewn into corner and a length of elastic cord attached to keep footprint in tension

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5. Detail of the vestibule footprint sewn under the tent footprint to an edge to repel water and debris from migrating between tent footprint and body. The perimeter edge is folded under to provide a smooth top edge.