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Bikerafting gear list

Loaded bike with packraft and 4-piece paddle in the handlebar harness
All gear laid out on a DIY tent footprint.
All gear laid out on a DIY tent footprint.
Packing a Rollingdale adventure bike for “no-backpack” bikerafting.  Total weight of bike, raft and all gear with food and 3 litres of water is around 65 pounds. 

1.  Bikepackers Foundry downtube FenderBag MSR – Carbon Reflex 1 tent and DIY full footprint, spare bottle of fuel in bottom of bag.

2. Bikepackers Foundry StraddleBags (left & right) – smartphone tripod, buff, bear spray, Park tool, nitrile gloves, lock, bug net hood; extra space.

3. Bikepackers Foundry custom white full-length top tube bag – InReach w/padded case, 1 litre Aquabot by Lunatech, sunglasses in hard case, ~2,000 calories of nuts, dried fruit, candied ginger, sunscreen, OR folding cap, water purification tablets; extra space.

4. DIY left pannier – 3-4 days of freeze-dried meals, long-handled Ti spoon, toiletries, bear-hang kit, extra snacks & emergency food, first-aid kit, spare headlamp, all in OR zipper bag; black zipper bag with all PD cache batteries, cables, spare bike light, knife;  Sea to Summit ultrasil backpack containing hooded down jacket, Gore Tex hooded rain jacket and full-zip rain pants, insulated vest, Gore Tex overmitts, spare gloves.  

5. DIY Framebag – spare Carbon Drive belt, Leyzne mini floor pump, tools and spares for bike, MSR 2 litre water bladder, GSI nesting bowls and small camp towel with MSR Reactor stove with fuel bottle and lighter; extra space.

6. Top of DIY rear rack – Salsa EXP dry bag containing; flat folded ThermaRest NeoAir Extreme large sleeping pad, OR compression dry bag containing regular ThermaRest Hyperion -6 C 900 fill-power sleeping bag, Sea to Summit pillow and inflation pump with adaptor hose, merino top, bottom, & boxers, spare compression socks, RAB down booties, RAB down pants, OR down beanie. 

7. DIY right pannier – raft repair kit, combo throwline and bailer, spare straps, Kokopelli USB rechargeable inflator, neoprene socks and gloves, Crocs water shoes, Mustang hybrid PFD with emergency whistle and knife. Not visible are a waterproof 3 litre deck bag, and a lightweight 40 litre drybag for all this gear that also serves as an back-up inflation bag and secondary air chamber inside the inflated raft.

8. DIY Jones H-loop handlebar harness – “Telkwa” DIY Packraft, 4-piece Werner packraft paddle, 4 Voile type straps. The raft is rolled around the paddle sections.
red “Telkwa” DIY Packraft with a blue Alpacka raft set up for an evening paddle

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Wahoo Elemnt Bolt mounting onto stem caps

This simple hack takes a few minutes to install and can be moved to different bikes without tools or cutting and replacing of cable ties.  Interlocking Velcro One-Wrap and adhesive backed Loop Velcro yield a sturdy mount and smooth surfaces in the bicycle cockpit.  In this example the Bolt positioning is at an ideal distance and location for the progressive lenses I wear.

The method of interlocking Velcro types is widely applicable.  You may even decide bottle bosses are unnecessary.  🙂

Completed mount out on a day ride.

Cut two narrow strips of One-Wrap to fit into the slots designed to accept cable ties.  These strips are about 4″, 10cm long

Mount and Bolt assembled and ready for a test fit.

A strip of adhesive backed Loop Velcro is cut and wrapped around the perimeter of the top of the stem. The Wahoo mount with OneWrap strips is then pressed firmly into the Loop Velcro.

Lastly, a length of One-Wrap (in this case 7″, 18cm) is then tightly wrapped around the One-Wrap tabs and the underlying Loop Velcro about 1.5 times the circumference to create a secure mount.


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Bikepackers Foundry backstory

Here’s a link to a podcast about how products and DIY ideas emerge from the Bikepackers Foundry.  Grateful that Sarah Hornby of Bikepack Canada and Steve O’Shaughnessy of MyBack40podast found this topic of interest to the community.

As one of the most requested guests for the Podcast, many of you already know who this man is. For those of you who don’t, say hello to Guy Stuart. Guy has been in the Bikepacking scene for the last handful of years and has made his presence known by participating in any event he can get his wheels into. Guy is also a passionate DIY sempster (tailor, sewer) and has manufactured most of his own luggage. In this episode, Guy discusses his passion for cycling and his analytical approach to the design and fabrication of his pieces.


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Lightweight DIY meals

Here’s a favorite bikepacking meal.  Ingredients can usually be found in most grocery stores.  Super easy to prepare in advance and loaded with about 750 calories.  Typically costs less than $3/meal.

2 – blocks Organic millet & brown rice ramen = 480 calories (Costco product)

1 pouch of Lipton Chicken Noodle Supreme Cup-a-soup = 60 calories

1 teaspoon Litehouse freeze-dried ginger

1 tablespoon Litehouse freeze-dried poultry herb blend (both Lighthouse products are usually in the refrigerated salad dressings area of grocery stores)

1 can solid light tuna packed in olive oil ˜200 calories (weight 85 grams) or substitute nuts, jerky, etc.


Preparation: Break up the ramen in a bowl and then add to a 1 litre  “medium” zip-lock freezer bag …. not a sandwich bag.

Combine rest of ingredients, except tuna, in bag, and seal.

When ready to “cook” add a can of tuna with the oil and then add 450 ml of boiling water, and seal bag.  Wrap bag in something to keep it warm.  Wait 5-15 minutes* while stirring bag occasionally to mix contents. *altitude dependent

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Integrated tent vestibule footprint

This DIY concept is a simple cutting and sewing project to extend the functionality of a tent.  A vestibule footprint can block mud and debris from entering the tent and also provides a larger barrier for moisture migrating from the ground and condensing on the inside of the tent fly.  Any piece of coated fabric will work.  In this example a piece of coated ripstop nylon was used.  The total weight addition is 30 grams.

Completed vestibule footprint set up on a recent bikepacking trip. 

Design considerations: a. Size the vestibule footprint smaller than the fly to prevent water from pooling on the footprint. b. Fold and sew edges to minimize water and debris accumulations. c. Add a length of elastic cord to hold the footprint in tension.

8. Breaking camp after a stormy night. Everything stayed dry under the tent fly

7. Completed tent and vestibule footprint sewn together

4. Inside corner and edge folding detail prior to sewing onto tent footprint

2. Preparing to check the drip-line with the fly installed

3. Laying out the fabric

1. Original MSR universal footprint

6. Five mm webbing sewn into corner and a length of elastic cord attached to keep footprint in tension

5. Detail of the vestibule footprint sewn under the tent footprint to an edge to repel water and debris from migrating between tent footprint and body. The perimeter edge is folded under to provide a smooth top edge.

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DIY Packraft construction & packing notes

Having good success with rolling the raft, seat, DripDeck, and four-piece paddle using this approach.  The TI zip is showing any wear or loss of function after more than 75 cycles.   The placement of the paddle blades provides a smooth interface for the TI zip in the final roll.
The stern of the raft is folded under to protect the end of TI zip. The raft is not rolled tightly, just small enough to slide into the front of the bike.
The rolled raft is slightly tapered to help insert the raft into the DIY Jones H-Bar harness.  The centre Voile strap is secured over the front loop of the bar.  Total weight for this package is about 3.5 kg, 8 pounds.  While it looks a little ungainly it works very well under all conditions except tight singletrack.  No backpack bikerafting! 🙂

Telkwa #1 with DripDeck, and loaded with fatbike and gear on a #ridefromhome trip, April 2020

This post is a work-in-progress documenting changes or additions made during the construction of four Telkwa packrafts purchased from the awesome folks at DIY Packraft. DIY Packrafts are extremely well designed and the kits assemble exactly as demonstrated in the excellent videos and printed instructions.  My intention is to substitute the  Leafield D-7 inflation/deflation valves to replace the supplied Boston valves.  While heavier and more bulky my experience is that inflation/deflation is much quicker due to larger porting, are easily cleaned, and are field-replaceable without thermal welding.

July 26, 2020 – When paddling a raft in higher winds I’m finding the bow rides high without a bike on.  This addition is an internal tie-down and haul line that allows a weighted bag to be secured inside the bow.  For new builds I suggest welding two points in place. One near the Ti Zip and the second one near the centreline of the bow.  The line is routed through both side tubes allowing for easy positioning, securing, and retrieval of the bag in the bow.  I keep a spare plastic bag for adding rocks if additional ballast is required. 

 The patches are approximately 3″ x 4″ with a 3/4″ Beastee Dee Ring welded into the patch with strips of floor material.  I choose this style of ring as it has a larger surface for the line to pass over.  Total weight for both attachment points and 18′ of 550 Paracord is around 50 grams.

Completed raft #1 with homemade DripDeck made from the supplied inflation bag materials*.  The deck slides open the full length of the cockpit on the perimeter grab line. The black round snaps can be opened for both adjustments and complete removal. Installed weight is ~140 grams. The black 5 mm webbing loops at the rear corners allow the deck to double as a sail in light downwind conditions. * Primary inflation is from a Kokopelli Feather Pump which completes the task in less than one minute!  There are sources on Amazon which appear to have very similar options.  The backup is a spare Klymit inflation bag, modified for the Leafield value.  This bag does double-duty as a storage bag and additional air chamber inside the raft. 
Telkwa #2. The only substantive change was to cut the matching colour sealing strips ~1.5 inches wide for easier welding.  The D rings on the tie-downs were eliminated as it’s unlikely that this boat will be used regularly for bikerafting.  The seat back also had an internal baffle added to yield a flatter back panel.  This addition is more comfortable, however the seat back could benefit from even more shaping.  For Telkwa #3 a second internal baffle will be added to the back panel.

There’s really only one tool that I’ve found that materially improves assembly processes.  It’s a small stainless steel mixing bowl with a flat bottom slightly wider than a typical welding area.  To the bottom of the bowl two parallel strips of 3M double-faced window film sealing tape are added just outside of the working area.  This easily removable tape typically has enough adhesion to complete the welding of one tube segment.  Removal and replacement of the two tape sections takes about a minute.


Double-faced tape on the bottom of the bowl prior to the removal of the printed backing strips.

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vvp for bikepacking 🤔 Mega to Mini panniers – development notes

The purpose of this post is to give folks ideas about an approach to develop DIY gear for bikepacking and possibly bikerafting. Looking critically at all possible storage areas of my bikes led me to seriously examine the role that panniers could play in extending distances and multi-sport travel,*aka bikerafting. What problems might be solved by panniers that can be adjusted during the journey? Thinking ahead to possible outcomes when Covid-19 controls are reduced results in evaluating the prospect of needing to carry all or most supplies over bikepacking trips of several weeks. Ideally this could be achieved without using a backpack. Can on-bike storage be reconfigured to meet changing needs of food and bikerafting realities? These were some of the disparate thoughts rattling around as I considered prototyping more storage options for extended completely unsupported bikepacking trips.

From these ideas emerged some usage criteria: no unnecessary weight, quickly flexible, integrated with existing gear and systems, durable and without dangles, hikeabikeable, complementary to packrafting, function over form.

I then moved on to considering what gear and food might fit into different storage locations on the bike and packraft. While thinking about how this might work on a trip, the idea of significant volume flexibility emerged.

The main integration items are drybags, compression drybags, and food packaged in ziplock bags, ultralight backpack. For bikerafting the items are PFD, cold water immersion gear, inflation and repair supplies, miscellaneous packraft components.  For a fairly minimalist bikepacker the list got long very quickly …

Typical 20 litre drybags* seemed good organizational size to start working from. This resulted in rough bag dimensions of 4 inches deep, 10 inches wide, and about 24 inches tall when open. Other integration checks included 5 and 8 litre compression drybags, ziplocks full of food, PFD, full packraft kit (raft and 4-piece paddle are carried on the handlebars). * The Sea to Summit Ultralight Drybag Backpack (a favorite of mine) is also approximately this size

The combination of usage criteria and volume flexibility results in the Mega to Mini panniers prototype. A maximum closed volume, 4 folds, of about 18 litres with a minimum volume of <5 litres when fully compressed. When empty, each pannier is flat with no protrusions.

Left pannier at close to minimum size, right pannier fully expanded with heavier gear in the bottom section.
Fatbike with variable volume panniers still attached ready to launch. Even with the raft and safety gear no backpack is required.
Set up for hike-a-bike while bikerafting with the contents of the left pannier moved to the right. Alternately a ultra-light backpack can be removed from a pannier and gear transferred completely off the bike.
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Cooking with gas

These are a couple of simple ways to get more efficiency out of your cooking system. The water bath also works very well for using a conventional propane/iso-butane gas stove at extremely low temperatures (below -30). Water bath – The sensible and latent heat in liquid water is used to vapourize the liquid fuel in the gas canister. It’s helpful to tip the bowl enough that air does not get trapped in the concave bottom of the fuel canister. Don’t be alarmed if you hear the fuel boiling inside the canister. As the water starts to show signs of freezing dump it out and add warmer water. The fuel will continue to consistently vapourize as you cook or melt snow. We’ve also set the stove in puddles and streams to achieve the same result. Windscreen – buy a thin flexible cutting sheet from your local shop, punch two holes near the corners of one side, cut and bend a piece of thin wire of a length to bend the cutting sheet. Lean the cutting sheet against the side of your pot to block the wind. This setup also works well with alcohol stoves.

The cutting sheet/windscreen can also be used as a stiffener inside the handlebar roll, and for serving Bikepacker’s Charcuterie.

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Waterproof hip and handlebar pack

This is a very simple method of securing a hip pack to a Jones H Loop handlebar. The attachment method works with many styles of bags simply by attaching a loop near the bottom to hold the bag in place within the H-Loop. At 240 grams this 4 litre rolltop drybag is not ultra light, however it is extremely durable. Newer models are available that weigh 180 grams. The only modification required is to push a knotted loop of paracord through the drain hole of the zippered pocket, a bead or ring to prevent the cord from sliding out is optional. The mounted bag pictured below contains a down jacket and vest, cache battery and cables, and an InReach. The bag also works well as a deckbag when bikerafting.

Length of paracord knotted and ready to be inserted through the drain hole.

Valhalla Pure Outfitters carries these Seal-Line Hip Pack bags for less than $65 Cdn. The weight can be reduced by replacing the heavy 25mm (1 inch) waist belt with a lighter grade of webbing and buckle set. This change dropped the weight of the red bag to 180 grams.

Adding an accessory pocket

Left to right: DeLorme InReach, Handy Andy 5 with Loop Velcro patch and belt loops modifications, Handy Andy 6 open, 44.4 Whr cache battery with Hook Velcro patches on the back. These modifications were made with a simple light-duty sewing machine.

The red bag has a patch of industrial Hook Velcro attached to the outside of the pocket. It was placed and clamped overnight for the adhesive backing to fully adhere. This patch becomes the platform to attach other items such as an electronics case. The image above has a couple of examples of utilizing different Handy Andy cases for holding devices and securing a cache battery to the Loop Velcro inside the case.