Author: AbMtnGuy

Bikepacker, DIY ultralight gear nerd
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The Slowest Known Time Machine

Any external links in this post are included solely on my positive experiences.

My preference is to travel at slower speeds to experience and savour the journey. A comfortable bicycle and bed, a tent, a stove, and a couple of hot meals each day can make for very memorable times in the backcountry. Particularly in winter, in the Rockies, I’ve had difficulty finding enough space to carry everything with typical bikepacking luggage.

I started “modern” bikepacking with various seat, frame, handlebar, and accessory bags about a decade ago. 2016 marked the start of a journey designing, handcrafting, and testing original ultralight bikepacking gear. By the time 2020 Covid restrictions were implemented I’d completed a number of bikepacking races, mostly at a fast-touring pace, including the 2017 Alberta Rockies 700 on a fatbike. In preparation for these events, and also general bikepacking, my focus was on creating integrated systems of custom luggage, racks, and fenders; that were robust, flexible, and required minimal installation and packing/unloading effort and time. In short, by the end of 2019 I’d developed some four season field-tested concepts about how to simplify bikepacking luggage systems with a few small additions and deletions to a bicycle frame, and Bikepackers Foundry unique attachment systems.

In mid-2020 I asked Rollingdale Cycles about creating a custom titanium Pinion – Gates Carbon Drive fatbike with a few unusual features. Only straight tubing in the main triangle, a short titanium tube welded at an angle to the bottom of each seat stay, and no bottle bosses or threaded mounts. Since that time, the custom Rollingdale fatbike and custom luggage systems have become a trusted and highly-capable integration for year-round adventures. The Pinion C 1:12 transmission with DS2 shifter and Gates CDX Carbon Drive systems are extremely reliable and virtually maintenance free.

Fully loaded for a -30C overnighter. The top of the rear rack remains available for more gear. The custom Large HandlebarBag+ holds a NeoAire Xtherm Wide sleeping mat, a 14 section Z-Sol foam mat, and a MSR Hubba NX tent body and fly. All luggage is constructed from Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200. The DIY pogies design is here. A typical winter gear inventory is pictured and described in this blog post. The winter tire combination of Bontrager 4.5″ Gnarwahls with all 45 North XL studs is superb! I’ve only had to replace 3 studs in two winters of riding.
This is the system I started using in mid-2025. It replaces a MSR tent, with a Durston X-Mid. December 29, 2025 rolling into camp after sunset. For the gram counters… ~29 kg (65#) with 2.5 litres of water in vacuum flasks and food for two days. The right pannier holds a Thermarest Polar Ranger sleeping bag, 1.6 kg. The left pannier holds down outerwear and spare clothes, 1.5 kg. The Durston X Mid Pro 1 tent on top of the rack weighs 0.9 kg with a custom footprint. The total rear luggage mass 4.8 kg, including the 0.8 kg rack/fender) The handlebar bag holds a Thermarest Z Sol foam mat and Neoair Xtherm wide, pillow, and inflation pump (1.4 kg). All food, 2.5 litres of water, stove & fuel, tools and spares are in the centre of the bike. More than 55% of the mass is in or on the main frame triangle. No backpack! Very comfortable to about -30 Celcius, without a fire.

Rollingdale Custom Ti fat bike: Dale Marchand’s bike design and build suits me very well. I really appreciate the predictable handling, and extremely comfortable ride. The chain stay length, wheelbase, and overall geometry yield a very capable machine; with the excellent rollover characteristics and float of 27.5″ wheelsets.

Rollingdale Cycles custom fatbike design. The combination of a Lauf Carbonara fork and Jones H-Loop carbon bar adds about 100 mm of compliance up front, with the PNW Coast suspension dropper adding about 40 mm to the rear. The custom-formed Reform Seymour saddle with carbon fiber rails and shell also results in additional comfort and compliance. Tube diameters: top tube 35 mm, down tube 40 mm, seat tube 35 mm, chain stays 24 mm, seat stays 19 mm. 177 mm rear axle in Paragon Machine Works drop outs. The Q Factor is 206mm with the C 1:12 and Pinion CNC fatbike cranks. Eight millimeters narrower than the P-Line transmission.
The total weight of bike without luggage is ~33#, 14.7 kg, including ~600ml of tire sealant. I prefer the shifter on the left as it allows precise rear braking while non-sequential shifting the Pinon gearbox. The DS2 shifter is precise, intuitive, and reliable…and I can safely ride wearing mitts!
A selection of Dale’s assembly pictures of the chainstays and Pinion bridge. The 177mm rear axle, and 8mm narrower C-Line transmission create a very comfortable Q factor.

Custom Luggage and Rear Rack: Bikepackers Foundry DIY luggage systems have focused on extremely stable higher-volume components. The 2024 system has been further streamlined to just six bags. DIY High-volume framebag (~16 litres), custom Large HandlebarBag+ (up to 18 litres), two custom Large Straddlebags (up to 3 litres each), and a pair of prototype CompressionPanniers (up to 15 litres each). The framebag has a full length zipper, and ALL other five bags are top-loading with roll-top compression closures. The DIY composite rear rack lowers the centre of gravity and makes for a great ride! I’m a fan of no rubbing, rattles, or dangling and this system delivers.

The SKT Machine on a local overnighter in the Cascade Valley of Banff National Park. Packed for lows of -10 deg. C. The Light Bicycle Wheels are new to me and worthy of a future post on pairing narrower rims with 4.5″ tires. Surprisingly fast…and…”floaty”!
Top view of a heavily loaded winter fatbike.
This is a snapshot taken after packing up the bike during a recent chilly overnighter (-20 C). The weight in the high-volume DIY framebag was more than 10 kg and yet a slim and stable riding profile is being maintained by the structure of the bag, and additional shaping from a pair of Large Straddlebags attached to the front sides of the top tube. All bags use Ultra 200 fabric and the total weight of all six bags and mounts is about 1 kg.

A high-volume >15 litre framebag opens up many options to pack a bike, differently. Up to 14 litres of water in 3 bladders can be easily loaded and stably carried in this framebag. There remains room at the top for smaller items such as rain gear, tent poles/footprint, spare tube(s), and a spare Carbon Drive belt. The finished and mounted weight of the pictured framebag is about 300 grams. The combination of the Ultra 200 fabric, edge stiffening, and internal composite rigid panels create stability and eliminate bulging in key areas such as the pedal sweep. My preference is to have lots of room when standing pedaling.

Loaded and ready to close the zipper. Both sides of the zipper track are stiffened with 0.095″ monofilament.
The sides, top, and rear composite panels eliminate bulging, and provide load stability.
Top view of the heavily loaded framebag. The Bikepackers Foundry Velcro mounting system is visible as only a few zip ties at key locations.
Left side view with the zipper closed. When camping the bike sits like this in the tent vestibule, allowing access to the framebag.
The DIY Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200 high-volume framebag creates a very stable and low center of gravity to pack the rest of the bike around. These images are of 14 litres of water, spare tube, rain gear, and the poles and DIY full footprint of a MSR Hubba NX tent.

Obviously, for winter riding there is no need to carry 14 litres of water. The framebag easily carries a MSR Reactor stove & bowl, most food and toiletries in a small backpack, two large thermos of water, Ti coffee mug (with DIY cosy), spare Carbon Drive belt, tent poles & DIY full-footprint, emergency twig stove, and spare gloves and mitts. The structure and mounting of the bag makes packing a simple load & ride operation.

The prototype CompressionPanniers are low, stable, and completely install or remove in about a minute without tools. The mounted pair weigh less than 350 grams. The right pannier typically holds a Thermarest Polar Ranger -30C sleeping bag in a custom Dynema compression drybag. The left pannier typically holds a closed custom Ultra 200 drybag filled with winter-weight down parka, pants, socks, beanie, and mitts. In the top of the bag are a hard-shell jacket and pants. Both roll-top panniers are then compressed by the raincover lids and hold down straps. While these bags appear very simple from the outside, there are numerous elements that create just enough structure for stability and durability.

ThermaRest Polar Ranger sleeping bag in the right CompressionPannier
The design of the rack and pannier keeps the back of the left pannier away from the rear brake caliper.
Right pannier compression/hold down strap routed through the Paragon Machine Works dropout.
Top view of the panniers and rack. Exo Spikes are in the bag strapped to the top of the snow covered rack.
Rear view while riding some tight singletrack.
Another indication of how stable and secure the loads are.

DIY composite rack: The rear rack with integrated fender now has more than 3,000 km of backcountry usage and has only had a couple of minor tape repairs from multiple encounters with rocks, trees, and shintangle. I’m very happy with the longer term performance, durability and weight of just 800 grams. The Rollingdale Cycles custom titanium rack mounting tubes are a gamechanger! The tubes allow the rack stays to bear directly onto the bottom of the seat stays. This configuration largely eliminates shear forces. The composite rack stays are pulled into curvature by the front (tripod) attachment point and overall rack dimensions. This creates a reliable friction fit for the rack without any bolting. The integrated 25″ composite fender adds structure to the rack, and helps keep the bike and rider cleaner when riding in sloppy conditions. This design and mounting configuration creates additional width for panniers, without increasing the overall width. The loaded width is typically around 20 inches.

Rack and fender weigh-in
March 2024 after thousands of backcountry kilometers. The black tape is UV and impact protection for the underlying composite structure.
The angle of the rack allows for full dropper post usage while carrying items such as the pictured MSR Hubba NX tent, poles, and full footprint.
Custom titanium mounting tubes. The rack stays are a friction fit with no bolting required.
Velcro pads to receive the rack and OneWrap. The strength and temperature rated cable ties are securing the framebag from lateral movement. The Engin dual bolt seat collar is awesome!
The rack installs or removes in about a minute. Perfect for playtime. 🙂 The orange handle on the top tube is a folding saw used for light trail work. Pictured with a prototype colour matched removable rear fender, 32 grams.

The custom size Large StraddleBags and HandlebarBag+ have really eliminated weight and complexity at the handlebars and fork. The while the HandlebarBag+ can carry the weight and volume of more than 20 freeze dried meals, it’s ideal for high-volume compressible items. The two StraddleBags typically have one or two water bottles, a large Ziploc of riding-food, high volume mini floor pump, and tools/spares. This cockpit configuration allowed me to move the Wahoo mount down onto the frame top tube. Since that move I’ve not had the GPS knocked off the mount while riding narrow and overgrown trails.

Riding cockpit during my 2024 150km Fat Viking Global Edition: (left to right) 500 ml drink-through-the-lid mug on the top of the rolled-down left StraddleBag, not visible beneath is a second 500 ml insulated mug and a high volume mini floor pump; Wahoo Elemnt Bolt V2 displaying the all-water (ice) route, and a red pair of hand spikes for self rescue; the closed right StraddleBag contains about 3,000 riding calories and some quick access tools. The weight on the handlebars is limited to a Lynx OGT Aurora light, and a riding vest. This was an “easy” route and it gave me time to think about gear development questions.

If you’re interested in creating your own original gear, here are some questions that may be helpful.

Development Questions:

Can lights, trip computers, and other accessories be repositioned to increase functionality and flexibility? Using Velcro or other ties to mount lights and GPS head units can both greatly simplify and increase the functionality of a bike cockpit.

Luggage systems Development Questions:

How will the element attach to the bike in ways that create structure, and fabric tension? Bikepackers Foundry designs incorporate innovative applications of various types of industrial grades of Velcro. For reference, one linear foot (24 square inches) of VHB backed hook/loop pair weighs less than one ounce. In practice, one foot yields 16 pair of “semi-permanent” mounting points on the bike and matching luggage. Weight is 1.5 grams per pair. This compares very favourably to typical threaded attachment systems, and completely eliminates the potential for cyclic failures prevalent in mechanical connections.

Does the design, construction, and function of the element in any way compromise the rider’s range of motion? If yes, start the design process again.

Is it possible to quickly and completely remove the element (including all mounting points) from the bike? If not, how can semi-permanent mounting points be optimized and concealed? Should rated electrical cable ties (typically 50-175# yield strength, depending on size) be incorporated into the attachment?

What design and function aspects will centralize & lower luggage mass on the bike? A couple of examples: StraddleBags move weight down, back, and off the handlebars. Sloped DIY composite rear racks allows for lower and more forward pannier positioning.

How will the element be used off the bike? Can the design incorporate features to increase functionality and useability? A recent example of this is the HandlebarBag+ which doubles as a high-volume top-loading shoulder bag when not compressed on the bike.

Sara using a HandlebarBag+ (small) off the bike.

Have all wear and noise points been eliminated or minimized?

Is there sufficient volume and weight flexibility in the luggage to accommodate a wide range of usage scenarios?

Has the custom framebag width been optimized for the rider and their pedal sweep?

Can any pieces of existing luggage be eliminated?

Thanks for reading!

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DIY high-volume frame bags

This blog post is another pictorial “recipe” for creating or retrofitting frame bags that are very stable and can carry more gear. The pictured bag has a capacity of more than 15 litres, and is loaded with water and gear. The key to maximizing the stable usable volume are internal composite stiffening panels fastened to portions inside the sides, back, and top of the fabric bag. If you’re retrofitting an existing bag just cut it down the centre line and then add a width strip to your needs (including Velcro OneWrap daisy chains), and the internal panels. This project took about 20 hours to complete. The materials and design are intended to accessible to folks. Several thousand hours of prototyping and field-testing have been incorporated into this design. While this implementation is ultra-light and not inexpensive, you can get creative with found and upcycled materials. Avoid using coiled zippers if you want to create a durable and high-performing project.

Overview: 14 litres of water in three bladders, plus the other gear pictured below. The left side internal composite panel is visible in the lower triangle of the bag. The perimeter of the bag is attached to the frame with Velcro and a few zip ties. This bag is made from Challenge Sailcloth Ultra 200 and weighs about 300 grams. All seams are taped with Challenge Sailcloth Ultra TNT. The combination of the materials and rain cover on the zipper create a highly water resistant bag. Ultra 200 is a UHMWPE fabric (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene), and is extremely strong and durable.
The spare fatbike tube (white rectangle, top right) sits in the bottom of the bag. The three bladders are then stacked in the frame bag, with the remaining gear sitting on top. An MSR hydration hose can be attached to any of the bladders and routed out through a front or back port.
Both upper and lower zipper tracks are stiffened to maintain tooth alignment. YKK #5 Vislon zippers represent a durable yet lightweight choice. Coil zippers will fail prematurely.
Top view with the bag loaded and the zipper closed
Drive side view. I prefer the zipper on the left side for ease of access while riding, and when the bike is stored in my tent vestibule.
Some of design elements become visible. The width has been optimized for Q factor and pedaling clearances. The combination of the external fabric and internal composite panels securely hold the contents from vertical and lateral movement.
Two DIY frame bags for #19, a 29’er hardtail. The bag on the left was constructed in January 2024 and incorporates all the design details outlined below. The bag on the right was built in early-2020 without the benefit of using internal composite stiffening panels and elements. The Velcro OneWrap daisy chain on each bag is used to directly secure the bag onto the centre-line of the frame. The bag on the right has many thousands of kilometers of backcountry usage.
Two of the industrial Hook Velcro VHB backed mounting patches on the frame. The lower downtube patch is ~3/4″ wide to match the exposed Loop OneWrap on the frame bag. A typical frame mounting system consists of seven to ten 3/4″ x 2″ Hook Velcro pads aligned to the centre-line of the frame. I cut these from a roll, Velcro Part #90197. A few zip ties are added at key locations to tension the bag in the frame and eliminate any movement. The dropper post cable gets routed immediately behind and below the installed frame bag.
Checking crank and drive clearances on the completed fat bike bag.

Overall construction steps: This design of framebag is based on a single cardboard template that has been carefully shaped to completely fill the main triangle of a bicycle frame. Seam allowances are added to the edges of all panels. All of the perimeter panels are measured based on the four sides of the cardboard template, plus seam allowances. The cardboard template will also be used to size the two composite stiffeners for the side panels.

Left side of frame
Right (drive side) of frame. The seam allowance on all sides adds 3/4″ to each edge of the panel. You may be able to reduce this to 1/2″.
A single piece of cardboard serves as the cutting template for the side panels. Adjusting your layout of all the panels will help minimize waste. In this example, another framebag was made for a different bike with the two pieces of triangular “waste”. Overall waste was very minimal.
Velcro OneWrap bar tacked to three edges enables secure mounting to the frame.
The bottom of the framebag has a loop Velcro panel that matches with a hook Velcro panel on the Pinion bridge of the frame. This panel may not be needed with a conventional bottom bracket.
This width of bag (~5.5″) works flawlessly for my “zero-contact” riding needs on the fat bike.
The left image shows all of the main panels cut and assembly started. All edge panels are the same width to aid in precise control of the final shape of the bag.
Bottom seam in the zipper cover formed from a strip of Ultra 200. A composite stiffener [aka string trimmer line 🙂 ] will be inserted into this resulting pocket.
Adding a second seam to the upper zipper track. This creates another pocket near the back edge of the zipper. A second composite stiffener will be inserted into this pocket.
Adding another seam to the lower zipper track. This forms a pocket for insertion of a third composite stiffener.
The zipper cover is formed by a folded strip with the upper zipper track sewn to only one side of the fold.
Sewing the zipper into the left panel. It is CRITICAL that the left and right side panels are exactly the same size and shape (mirror images). I typically make the zipper side panel slightly larger and then trim it to perfectly match the other side, and double check the cardboard template. This ensures that the completed bag has no twists or deformation when mounted in the frame.
OneWrap bar tacked with 2″ spacing. The front end of the panel has Velcro attached to create a closable port for cables or hoses.
Reverse side of the same panel with the TNT tape applied with a silicone pressure roller. I prefer to allow 24 hours for the TNT tape to cure in place before sewing the bag together.
Detail of outside and inside of one of the larger perimeter panels.
Joining the zipper (left) side panel to the perimeter panels.
Adding the drive side (right) panel.
Using a zipper foot to complete one of the closing seams.
Using a standard foot to bar tack all of the corners. These joints will be sealed with TNT tape later in the process.
Sewing details…keeping everything aligned and symmetrical.
Using a commercial grade of line helps ensure sustained performance of the bag. Look for items that have rated performance (cycles, temperature) on the packaging.
Warming the line ends with a lighter to create a smoother element.
Adding 0.095″ string trimmer line to the three pockets in the zipper and rain cover. In this example Husqvarna line gets the nod.
Half of the width of tape is applied to one side and then carefully folded over onto the matching face.
Nearing completion of the TNT tape application and pressure rolling.
Adding TNT tape to all edge and zipper seams.
Lower left side panel. The height of the panel is determined by pedal sweep plus an allowance forward of the pedals. If unsure, start with a larger panel and trim it down, if appropriate.
The raw weight of the four panels, prior to the addition of stiffeners, edge tape, and VHB mounting tape. The bag and all panels must be test fitted on the bike frame prior to proceeding further. The length of the shortest (top) panel is personal preference. I’m looking to have the frame bag “play nicely” with my custom large StraddleBags.
Cutting and shaping the corroplast panels.
Adding VHB tape to the top (left) and back (right) panels. The back panel is sized to keep that plane of the bag in tension. Once installed with the Velcro attachment system and zip ties the competed bag is extremely stable.
Inserting two lengths of string trimmer line into top edge of each side panel. These help eliminate any bulging in a sides of the bag. An internal tensioning system can also be added.
Preparing the panels for application
While not easy to see, the side panels have 2″ Outdoor Repair tape applied to the top edges and the inside of the fabric. TNT tape also works in this application.
Adding side panels.
Tools and spares with 36″ of OneWrap sitting directly on top of the Pinion bridge of the bike frame.
MSR Reactor stove placed onto the items at left.
Test fitting some of my typical gear. A high volume mini floor pump is in the back drive side corner.
The stiffening system is just visible in the zipper tracks and cover. The cover is being held open with my left hand while taking this picture.
Normal position of the zipper cover. Zip ties are just visible at the junction of the top and seat tubes. There are adjacent Velcro patches on both tubes.
Zipper and mounting details
The dropper post cable has been routed behind and below the bag. The heads of the zip ties in the top rear corner are again just visible. The edges of the upper and lower Velcro patches on the frame are visible as a line on the frame tube.
Completed bag loaded with about 17 kg of gear. A zipper pull has been added to ease opening and closing, particularly while riding.
This is one of those real-world trail images that highlights this frame bag design and construction. I’d packed the bike up at about -20C after a winter overnighter. The framebag holds all water, food, stove & fuel, spare parts and belt, and some quick access outer layers. Perhaps about 15 kg of contents loosely dumped into the bag. Despite this lack of packing there’s no sag from all this weight and lack of organization.

After several thousand kilometers of Fall, Winter, and early-Spring fatbiking I’m really happy with this design and construction. At risk of over stating things …. this bag has FUNDAMENTALLY altered my bike-packing practices. Food, water, stove, fuel, tools, spares, etc. all have a stable and secure space inside ALL dimensions of a bicycle frame. The handling of the bike has noticeably improved with the overall lowered centre of gravity. The rear prototype CompressionPanniers and Sara’s new Bikepackers Foundry HandlebarBag+ (size Large) and a pair of custom StraddleBags (size Large) yield a solid expedition luggage system.

Thanks for reading!

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DIY Pogies

Cover image – the pogies are stable and accessible…even when just bike-pushing. :) Each pogie weighs less than 115 grams.

This post outlines creating a simple cardboard cutting template, and sewing a pair of warm lightweight pogies for cold weather riding . The main differences from commercially available pogies are the Velcro mounting and front closure/venting system, and the potential to upcycle worn out synthetic insulated outerwear. Each pogie consists of two halves. Each half consists of an outer and inner fabric layer with insulation sewn in between. The two halves are then joined and finished with edging and Velcro.  The pictured pogies have seen hundreds of uses since Fall 2021, while undergoing several minor changes to accomodate cockpit tweaks such as a dropper post lever cable, and rotary shifter cabling.  Apologies for the lack of sequential contruction pictures. This was a learning by doing project. :) I’ve included pictures and comments on design changes, in hopes that others can avoid them. 

If you just want to buy some really warm pogies, check out the ones my friend Doug Coldbike makes!

Image of the completed “first draft” version, without a drawstring closure.
Notes on key sizing and shaping requirements. The underlying cutting sheet is graduated in inches.
The space for a hand warmer is very useful when riding in high wind chill conditions. It helps keeps the brakes functional below -40.
The same template is used to cut all six panels. Finding the correct bar angle sweep is important. Consider making the template larger than needed to provide some room to reduce certain dimensions, or to slightly alter angles. The sizing of this example has been altered to include the narrow VX21 strip mentioned below.
This mens size medium puffy has enough material to cut four panels. One from each sleeve, and two from the back. The front face with pockets and zippers can be used for augmentation or other projects. Materials such as this will require stiffening at the inner and outer edges to retain the pogies desired shape. The string trimmer line pictured below is ideal for stiffening in the bias tape edging.
Cutting Apex Climashield 7.5 (oz/sd yd) insulation with the single cardboard template that all panels are cut from. Apex is made from continuous filament polyester fibres. This insulation helps give these pogies more inherent structure than a typical upcycled Primaloft garment may have.
Examples of finishing materials that were used. Smaller quantities may be available to you locally.
Loop velcro addition
Hook velcro addition
Joining the three layers of each panel
Two halves of a pogie. DP Light Skin 07 outer, HyperD300 inner, Apex Climashield insulation all cut from a single cardboard template. (left) The black strip is hook Velcro. (right) The matching loop Velcro [not visible] is sewn to the other side of the panel.
The two halves of a pogie sewn together with bias tape edging. The extra length is to cover the forearm which helps with warmer blood circulation to the hands.
First weigh-in. The arm hole was too small to accommodate a heavier cold-weather jacket. Oops! I had to immediately add a panel to the upper edge to increase the circumference.
Checking the sizing of the added VX21 panel.
More checking.
Adding a fabric panel to make the design more functional.
Completed pogie with a panel of DP VX21 added. The VX21 is only a single layer, however the pogies are the warmest I’ve ever used. The VX21 was a fabric remnant just waiting to be upcycled.
The Velcro front closure around the handlebar and rear brake hose, which can be opened if hands are too warm. The handlebar has a patch of Industrial Loop Velcro wrapped around it, and the pogie has a length of OneWrap that engages with the handlebar Velcro patch. This system allows for precise adjustments of the position of the pogies to suit a rider.
Adding a Kam Snap closure flap to keep snow out when not riding.
Inside view of the same flap.
Closure flap, and weigh-in with the modifications.
The closure flaps proved to be ineffective at keeping drifting snow out. I switched them out for a drawstring closure, also from remnants. The added length reaches almost to my elbows.
Close up of the attachment OneWrap with the patch of Industrial Velcro immediately below the brake lever clamp.
January 2024 – worn out OneWrap replacement. A single bar tack is enough.
Test fit the pogies before sewing on the OneWrap. The position of the bar tack needs to make it easy to install and remove each pogie.
While riding narrow singletrack my hands were getting beat up by the bushes. This string trimmer line is being inserted into the outer bias tape to provide some stiffening and protection. The cut ends were melted a bit to reduce wear points. The lighter trimmer line pictured earlier in this post also works well. Two strands can be used if desired.
January 2024 repair. The left pogie had some wear-through where the end of the Ergon grip is in contact. A short length of 2″ webbing is being added for protection. Looks like it might be time for a first wash. :)
Out for a training ride on an extremely cold and windy day.

Thanks for reading! Hope you find this post helpful in your DIY practice.

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Seat bag stabilization

Controlling seatbag sway

This DIY project can reduce or eliminate excessive lateral movement in many seat bags.

The two key elements are an appropriately configured structural member placed lengthwise in the bottom of the bag; and a static strap (not elastic) looped under the bag and over each seat rail, that compresses the contents and bag into the saddle rails and underside.   

With stabilization strap and strut. The lucky dangle mug has been removed for clarity. 🙂
The same bag and contents with only the original mounting system.

The above images are of a friend’s bike. She’s a very experienced and capable bikepacker, and was being frustrated by a seat bag that would droop and flop around despite being packed and tensioned correctly.

The solution proposed came out of some of the development work and testing of the Bikepackers Foundry Seat Bag. A. In order to minimize or eliminate sway the distance between the centerline of the bottom of the bag and each seat rail must be kept constant. B. Few, if any, seatbags have enough stiffness to prevent drooping behind the seat.

I wanted to provide a solution that was strong, lightweight, and did not require permanent modifications to the seat bag.

This is a length of omnitape, which is used to stabilize the bag, and compress the contents into the underside of the saddle.
This is a 12″ length of pulltruded fibre reinforced plastic which stiffens enough of the bottom of the bag to be able to transfer the load to the compression strap pictured at left. The fiberglass stiffener weighs 26 grams. It’s sold at Canadian Tire as driveway marker SKU #020-3313-0. A pair of bamboo chopsticks taped together may also be strong enough.
A 54″ length of omnitape was long enough to secure and compress the seat bag. Omnitape can be purchased in small quantities from Ripstop by the Roll.
The first 6″ of one end has be sewn back on itself to create an double interlocking zone, and a 48″ finished working length. Alternatively a webbing belt of similar length may also work. (see note below about friction)
Here’s how the strap needs to be routed to secure the bag.
The orange fibreglass stiffener has been taped into the inside bottom of the bag with VHB (not visible) and outdoor repair tape.
The loaded bag has been secured to the saddlerails with the omnitape strap system. It is CRITICAL that there is enough friction between the bag and the strap to have no slipping. If slipping occurs the strap will have to be sewn to the bag.
I had a secondary design objective with this gear hack. It was to make the suspension seat post function better with the bag attached. My friend reports that it’s working much better than previously.
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Light, heat, & power for bikepacking

This blog post outlines an integrated approach to having reliable light, heat, and power when bikepacking. More efficient and higher quality LED light sources, larger battery capacities, and the quick charging capabilities of many newer devices have created options for lightweight and robust systems. After comparing the specifications of various different elements I settled on two headlamps from Lynx OGT in Nelson BC, some handwarmer/cache batteries from Ocoopa, and front and rear blinky lights from Leyzne. The Power Delivery cache batteries outlined in this blog post continue to perform well, and have not been replaced. All items have been purchased at retail prices and are mentioned solely on their merits.

Background: 2022 was a year where several key electrical items stopped working while I was bikepacking. The most irritating was a fairly new Fenix HM65R light that shut off while I was night riding in a heavy rain storm. I was able to reach my destination with a backup headlamp. One of the lens seals was leaking, damaging the electronics. Replacement Fenix proprietary 18650 batteries are more than 4 times the price of standard units… A couple of Eddie Bauer branded USB rechargeable hand warmers also faded away after years of use.

A pair of Lynx OGT headlamps with the headbands replaced by Velcro for direct mounting to the handlebar, and the top of a bike helmet. Combined, these lights can produce 2,000 lumens of very high quality light.
Rear Lezyne Zecto 80 lumen light. On day-flash (high visibility) the light is rated to run for 7.5 hours.
Front Lezne Zecto 250 lumen light. On day-flash (high visibility) the light is rated to run for 4.5 hours.
A pair of Ocoopa Union handwarmers each with 5,000 mAh quick charge batteries. Runtime about 8 hours on Low.
Ocoopa 10,000 mAh handwarmer/cache battery with Power Delivery USB-C input and output. This unit weighs only a few grams more than a single-function cache battery of the same capacity. For late spring, summer, and early fall overnighters this is the only heat and power source I’ll carry. Two of these heat/power sources only weigh 50 grams more than a single 20,000 mAh PD cache battery.
Night riding along a lake shore. Primary lighting is from an Aurora (medium setting ~800 lumens) on the handlebars, and the bright rectangle is a CatEye 2 on the helmet, at about 600 lumens. I can ride about 6 hours on these settings. Including mounts, this pair of lights weighs 200 grams. On the highest settings this pair of lights produces about 2,000 lumens, much more than I need under most conditions. Lynx OGT from Nelson BC is creating some world-class and cost effective lighting systems!

Lighting: The Lynx OGT headlamps have similar controls consisting of a single button that is easily operated with gloves, mitts, and cold digits. The first press turns the light on to the “remembered” setting, second press is full power, a double press switches the light to strobe mode. There is also a stepless dimmer that “remembers” the last setting. The strobe setting is excellent for daytime riding on busy roads. The push button is translucent and has segmented red and green LEDs that indicate discharge and charge status. Both lights use standard 18650 3,500 mAh batteries. The mounts for both lights can be easily adapted for direct mounting. Lynx OGT sells additional mounts at a very modest cost. The Cat Eye 2 (left image below) has an adjustable beam pattern that can project a smaller and evenly lit area. This pattern is my preference as a helmet light. Around camp I’ll use the widest setting on low (50 lumens). The handlebar mounted Aurora (centre and right images) has three white and two red LEDs that produce uniform and far reaching light patterns. I find the white High (1,200 lumens) setting to be too much for most backcountry riding. The red light is a gamechanger!!! I prefer to run it on red High (300 lumens). it is easy to see conditions ahead, while also being able to enjoy the surrounding naturally lit night views. See picture and comments below. A few additonal night lighting images can be found in this November 2023 Ride Report from a cold-weather fatbike overnighter. For backcountry riding the red lighting is amazing!

Cat Eye 2 on high beam, narrow focus. The outer ring of light is also helpful.
Aurora only on medium setting
Aurora only on high red (300 lumens)
I was not able to capture an image of the cracks in the ice visible with red lighting. The crack immediately left of the front wheel and extending out onto the lake surface could be seen while night riding from about 10 metres away. Wider cracks can be seen from greater distances.

Light Mounts: Lynx OGT lights can be readily adapted for direct mounting to helmets and bikes.

Industrial Velcro patches on light mount and top of helmet.
Light mounted and then strapped into place with Velcro OneWrap.
OneWrap straps visible and not interfering with the function of the MIPS harness.

Alternative mounting using the headband looped through the visor.
Very secure, and a little front-heavy for me.
Velcro patch on stem.
Aurora light strapped to stem with two 12″ lengths on Velcro OneWrap.
Lots of clearance beneath the bars for luggage.
This is a cockpit view of the Aurora top-mounted to the front of the Jones H-Loop bar with Velcro OneWrap. This mount is secure, will not damage luggage, and does not cast shadows of the cables. The black handlebar bag is a tester FireballBag in Ultra 200. This top-loading rolltop weighs less than 200 grams for about 25 litres of storage.

Running lights: A pair of Lezyne Zecto Drive lights are an excellent compromise between weight and brightness. The day-flash settings are very visible, with reasonable run times. The lights recharge fairly quickly despite only having micro-USB charging ports. There are side-mounted LED’s that provide lateral visibility, and another set of indicators of battery levels. Build quality and design are very good.

Adding Velcro mounts
Loop patch on left front fork leg
Hook patch on back of the white light
Top view of mounting the light on a Jones H-Loop bar
The small Velcro patch on the light creates a very stable and secure addition. The light is offset on the Velcro loop bar-wrap to provide space for mounting the Aurora light.
Front light fork mounted. On this bike, the Aurora is mounted to the stem.
Rear light clipped into the left loop of a custom Ultra 200 20 litre CompressionPannier.

Charging: There are many variables when recharging devices in the field. I prefer to recharge my phone and GPS head prior to going to bed. This typically takes less than 90 minutes charging both USB-C devices.

This is a typical charging image in the tent when the temperatures are above freezing. The USB-C Power Delivery port on the handwarmer will recharge the Wahoo head very quickly. The Pixel phone typically takes an hour or so from 60% charge.
Verifying power consumption of a 5,000 mAh handwarmer with a USB tester on a 75 watt Power Delivery charger.
Using a USB-A to C cable to recharge the Wahoo. I prefer to use C to C for quicker results with greater reliability. The USB A to C cable and port does not have the ability to negotiate recharging requirements and may shut off prior to a complete recharge.
Recharging and verifying consumption from a recent overnighter. The handwarmer ran on low for 90 minutes, and then recharged the Wahoo head, and the phone; in total using about 30% of total battery capacity.
A pair of spare Lynx OGT 18650 batteries for the headlamps. I only carry these if night riding more than six hours per day. Both of the mentioned Lynx OGT lights can also be directly recharged from cache batteries (including while in use) or wall chargers. The batteries each weigh 50 grams. Note: For extended riding below -30 Celcius a pair of warmed batteries can be swapped back and forth.

As previously mentioned there are many variables with bikepacking light, heat, and power. If you’re looking to create a mental-model of your power requirements, a USB tester can help reduce the time spent developing and validating a power management plan.

Embracing winter while night riding with 300 lumens of red lighting.
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Winter fatbiking gear

Please note – This post is merely what’s working for me. Not a prescription for others.

March 2023. With the really cold weather camping season coming to a close here in the Rockies I’ll try and document gear and usages for mostly solo overnighters in temperatures to -35 Celsius. As part of my leave-no-trace approach, these trips seldom include wood fires. I require gear that will keep me dry and warm with minimal use of external heat sources. While winter camping during the 2021/22 season I noticed that some of my gear was not performing as well as previous seasons. With numerous pieces being up to a decade old, it was time to update a few items. This post reflects those updates after about five months of regular use. Both Cascade Designs (MSR & Therma Rest) and Rab feature prominently in my selections. All items were purchased at retail prices and have been chosen based solely on my experiences and perceptions regarding performance, utility, and value. Many of the items were purchased at off-season discounts of 50-65%.

Challenge Sailcloth’s 100% recycled ECOPAK EPX200 has been getting the call for some custom bags. Fun stuff to create new luggage with!

RollingDale fat bike, loaded for a winter overnighter. Total weight of bike, gear, food, and 3 litres of water was 32 kg, or ~72 pounds.

Back of bike – The primary reason for these larger compression panniers is to be able to get bulky items off the handlebar, and create a lower centre of gravity. (~20 litres, <375 grams each including all attachments) The visible right pannier contains outerwear, spare clothing, bear-hang (empty food bag), DIY tent footprint, and ExoSpikes in the compression lid. The ExoSpikes weigh about 220 grams/pair and are vastly superior to studded boots. The left pannier contains a 2022 Therma Rest Polar Ranger -30C sleeping bag, and a 2020 MSR Hubba NX tent without the poles. The weight of panniers and contents is 5.0 kg, ~11 pounds. The 2020 DIY composite rear rack with integrated fender weighs <900 grams. This rack angle permits the full usage of the dropper post.  Total weight behind the seat tube is less than 6 kg.

Loaded bike just prior to setting up camp for the night.
Compression panniers with only outerwear, spikes & emergency gear. An excellent profile for bike pushing.

Front of bike – Strapped directly to the Jones H Loop bar is a top-loading custom Bikepackers Foundry FireballBag; ~400 grams empty. Inside are the tent poles (bottom of bag and close to the head tube), 10+2 sections of 2015 Therma Rest Z-Lite Sol closed cell foam mattress, and a 2022 Therma Rest Neo Air X Therm Regular Wide with inflation bag. The weight of the FireballBag and contents is 1.3 kg, 2.9 pounds. A 2022 Lynx OGT Aurora maximum 1,500 lumen light is direct-mounted to the handlebar with OneWrap, weighs 106 grams. (Lynx OGT is a Nelson BC company producing world-class lighting systems.) Total weight on the handlebars < 1.5 kg, 3.3 pounds.

FireballBag cockpit view with Lynx OTG Aurora light
Fireball Bag mounted on the Jones bar
Contents of FireballBag, on DIY footprint

Centre of bike – As I almost always ride without a backpack or hip belt everything else needs to be carried around the centre triangle.

The 2020 custom frame bag contains canister stove & pot kit + emergency titanium wood stove, 2 litre water bladder (insulated in Outdoor Research hard shell and rain pants), 500 ml thermos of hot water covered with a pair of XL Rab Xenon mitts, emergency/first aid kit, spare Carbon Drive belt, spare Revoloop 27.5″ fatbike tube, zip ties, small shovel, and spare bike parts.

Drive side view of frame. Full-length custom top tube bag, XL StraddleBag & PumpBag all mounted to top tube.
Corroplast side panels visible above transmission. The zipper is on the left side to allow access when the bike is in the tent vestibule. In poor weather I can pack the entire bike except the tent shell, poles, and footprint before leaving the tent.
Front view, narrow profile

The 2020 custom top tube bag is divided in about the middle, with the back section holding a 0.5 litre drink-through-the-lid Thermos flask of warm water (this flask position the lowers centre of gravity of the bike) cushioned by a pair of Large Rab Xenon mitts & spare buff (back);, with the front section holding two 10,000mAh PD cache battery/warmers, two USB C to C cables and two USB A to micro USB cables and two female micro USB to male USB C adaptors (gotta have spares), Zoleo satellite communicator, keys and wallet, Swift RL headlamp, two spare 18650 batteries for the Aurora handlebar light, and two Petzl Bindi headlamps. I find that the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt (both V1 & V2) perform very well in cold conditions. Are run times reduced, yes. But not enough to warrant changes in how I use, carry, or charge these devices. For more information please refer to this detailed post regarding light, heat, and power for bikepacking. Side note:  at least one spare headlamp and the Zoleo are in my pockets while night riding. Bear spray carry location varies by my perception of risk levels. Belt carry is the preferred option. I have been followed by cougars several times while solo night-riding. A rear flashing red light or lights seems to be helpful.

Inflating the 2022 ThermaRest NeoAir Xtherm regular wide sleeping mat
Unpacking the ThermaRest Polar Ranger -30C sleeping bag
ThermaRest Z Sol foam mat visible under the air mattress. The combination has a R9 value.
Sea to Summit bear-hang bag containing all toiletries, food, water, and stove
Main contents of the bear-hang bag. Riding food is still on the bike.
Hydration system: 2 litres of hot water wrapped in rain wear, red 0.5mL drink through the lid thermos mug with custom insulated cover to keep hands warmer. 0.5 L thermos stored inside a pair of mitts. The 2 L bladder frequently is replaced by a 1 L thermos.
RIding calories for 2+ days
Everything fits into a large ZipLoc
Same bag being loaded into the left XL StraddleBag, for feeding while riding.
Closed XL StraddleBag. The double-elastic closure is a great place to store or dry gloves and buffs. There’s lots of knee and leg room with this bag position, even when standing pedaling in a forward position.
Outerwear: Rab Large Xenon Mitts (see note) sitting on parka, 2022 Blue Rab down parka (700 grams, size Small), two pairs of merino wool liner gloves, 2 buffs & a 2017 OR down beanie (primarily worn for sleeping), 2017 Rab Argon down pants, 2018 First Ascent down puffy with vented back, footwear detail below. For clarity, I layer pairs of Large and Extra Large mitts when conditions dictate.
Footwear: 2020 Bogs Yulex 2 sizes larger, yellow DIY 1/2″ closed-cell foam insoles, Bogs insoles, 2022 black Rab Pertex/Primaloft socks (worn as both a vapour barrier and insulating layer, 2018 blue Rab down socks (primarily worn for sleeping if needed). Each of the four Rab socks weighs 57 grams. These combinations will keep me warm and dry to at least -30 C for a few days. Everything dries fairly quickly overnight. Side note: I’ve had poor results from Rab vapour barrier socks, as the taping failed after a season of use. Not shown, ExoSpikes.
Wet snow/rain/wind layer: 2022 OR Helium rain pants, 2022 OR Helium Ascent Shell, extra heavy nitryl gloves. I’ll frequently wear the nitryl gloves as a base layer to keep hand outer layers dry. The ascent shell is excellent for starting out on very cold days, and as a wind layer. The pants and shell replaced some older GoreTex items. Weight was reduced by 330 grams and gear performance improved.
Reliably boiling a litre of water in very cold conditions, by placing the fuel canister in warm water.
DIY breakfast hashbrowns, and “backcountry cappuccino”.
Temperature at breakfast time, ~8am.
FireballBag on the rear rack to make the front lighter for riding in loose and variable conditions. I’m wearing both gloves and insulated mitts to compensate for the lack of pogies. Top layers: merino tee shirt, OR half zip hoodie, First Ascent puffy, OR Helium Ascent Shell. Bottom layers: compression knee socks, 200wt. merino leggings, Rab Pertex insulated socks, Bogs Yulex boots, winter alpine ski touring pant. This is the most that I’ll wear while riding. If wind chills are below -40 I might pull on the Helium rain pants.
This is a December 2022 image of using the “emergency” titanium twig stove that I carry. It can also be used with the XTS pot if the fuel canister is compromised or empty. It weighs 270 grams.

Please leave a comment if there are other details that might be helpful to you.

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DIY mug cozy

This project utilizes scraps or upcycled fabrics to create a functional and extremely durable insulated mug cover. At -20 Celsius the cozy will keep a mug of coffee warm for about 30 minutes. The cut list dimensions below are for the pictured mug. The mug can also serve as a backup or primary pot for boiling water.

Finished cozy for a 450 ml titanium cup
Tea bags, instant coffees, and two instant soups fit easily inside the mug for storage.
Mug and drinks loaded into the top of a frame bag.
Dangle-free zone. 🙂
Sew one edge of the two panels together. Liner fabric on top.
Positioning handle webbing at centre of panels, to create a hidden seam.
Attaching insulation to both edges of panel.
All components assembled.
Reverse side with bar tack of handle visible at upper centre
Inside fabric of cozy after turning the panels finished side out.
Outside fabric of cozy. The edge seams are now hidden.
Initial closure seam.
Second closure seam carefully matched to circumference of the mug.
Finished cozy with the handle bar tacked in four locations. The 3/4″ webbing handle covers the closure seam.


ComponentQuantityLength (in)Width (in)
EcoPak – EPX 2001123.5
Hyper D 3001123.5
Climashield APEX 3.6oz1113.5
3/4″ heavy webbing for handle1120.75
Cut list for pictured mug. Adjust sizing as required, leaving enough distance between the cozy and edge of the mug to avoid contact between lips and cozy.
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RWGPS Ride Reports

Titanium Pinion/Gates Drive bicycle in a field of wildflowers in the Upper Elk Valley.

This post is a “home” for links to my Ride Reports.

High Rockies Trail & Elk Lakes Local Overnighter – a solo August 2023 S24O.

Mount Costigan Local Overnighter – a July 2023 ride with friends on the Lake Minnewanka Shoreline Trail.

Nordegg Alberta Local Overnighter – a June 2023 area scouting trip with Kevin.

Stoney Creek Local Overnighter – a May 2023 ride to test the lightest luggage system I’ve ever created.

Galiano Island Overnighter – a May 2023 trip with the Vancouver Island Bikepacking Collective.

Yet another Lake Minnewanka Ride Report – an April 2023 overnighter on the Slowest Known Time Machine.

Cascade Valley easy spin – a March 2023 local overnighter to test at recently dislocated shoulder – test successful.

Redearth Creek and Shadow Lake fatbiking – March 2023 perhaps the stickiest snow I’ve ever biked in. Fun was had!

Elbow Valley Winter Overnighter – a February 2023 ride that was primarily the most tiring bike-pushing I’ve ever done.

Lake Minnewanka Winter Overnighter – a January 2023 trip to test some new gear systems on the SKT Machine.

N+0 on the GDMBR. The prototype Bikepackers Foundry Ultra 200 CompressionPanniers (~20 litres & 180 grams each) are performing very well after about 1,000 km. Likewise with the matching custom Ultra 200 StraddleBags. Only having five bags makes packing a breeze. The total weight of all luggage and 610mm composite integrated rear fender/rack is less than 1,500 grams. The 700mm carbon corner bars make for a fun and comfortable ride. While the bike may appear to be back-heavy, in fact the the centre of gravity is low and 50-75mm forward of the cranks.
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Backcountry bikepacking route: Kista Vistas

Scenic vista from a pond adjacent to Lake Abraham.
Kista Peak and surrounds viewed from a superb coffee outside spot!
Kista Peak and surrounds viewed from a superb #coffeeoutside spot!

The route is named after Kista Peak (centre) which forms an impressive vista for a camping location, and can be seen from many locations along the route.  Kista Peak is a 2,576-metre (8,451-foot) mountain located in the North Saskatchewan River valley and is part of the Ram Range in the Canadian Rockies.

Link to Kista Vistas RWGPS route

The Alberta (Canada) Bighorn Backcountry is an area covering more than 5,000 square kilometres (1.2 million acres) of public lands east of Banff and Jasper National Parks. The Stoney-Nakoda Nations have been using the area, particularly the nearby Kootenay Plains, for generations.  This route is adjacent to Abraham Lake, Alberta’s largest reservoir, and is accessed from the Bighorn Dam which is less than 30 km west of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (Jasper extension), and less than 75 km east of the Icefields Parkway. The Icefields Parkway consistently ranks as one of the ten best paved routes in the world.  As a weekend destination, the area is readily accessible to many folks in Alberta and British Columbia.

The mixed-use trails on this route have been developed and are maintained primarily for OHV use by the Bighorn Heritage ATV Society. However, the area is closed to OHV traffic between May 1 and June 30 each year. This closure represents an opportunity to quietly explore a very scenic area on well-maintained two-track. Riders exploring the area between July 1 and April 30 can expect to be sharing the trails with OHVs and/or snowmobiles.

Detail map of the area that is posted at the access point.
Detail map of the area that is posted at the access point (marked as the ? on the above map).

While the route is presented as a simple loop, best ridden counter clockwise, there are numerous opportunities to extend the route or enjoy more challenging day rides. The route is entirely unpaved and has some chunky sections on the steeper pitches.   The ATV group that maintains the trails are doing an excellent job mitigating OHV damage, and focused on a July 1 opening, so expect a few downed trees to deal with. Surface water (treatment required) is seasonally available in several locations.

Random camping sites are available in several locations, and identified on the RWGPS route file. A public lands camping pass is required. There are also developed drive-in campsites with pit toilets on the north side of the Bighorn Dam. As always, Leave No Trace!

Climbing one of the steeper pitches
A few of these on the route
Enjoying views from our camp
Moonlight reflections
Kista Peak from the trail.
Easy and very scenic two-track.
One of the numerous trails crossing the area.
A windy Abraham Lake at very low levels, late Spring.
Derelict structures
One of several camping locations
Butterfly, and jet boat, on the North Sask. River

If you’re looking for more bikepacking routes in the Rockies purchase Bikepacking in the Canadian Rockies.

All photos by K. Wirtanen or G. Stuart.

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DIY Ice Probe for fat biking

Cycling on ice can be hazardous or fatal! These ideas are presented entirely at your own risk and expense.

Fat bike sitting on thick older ice, with new thin ice and open water in the background.
DIY Ice Probe strapped to left side of top tube. Fat bike sitting on thick older ice, with new thin ice and open water in the background.

The Nordic ice skating community has developed specific tools for assessing ice thickness. Luc Mehl’s Wild Ice course (highly recommended) was the catalyst for this little project. This blog post is a DIY adaptation of an ice probe sized for carrying on and deployment from a fat bike; without interfering with other gear typically carried for winter camping. While this probe has so-far only had a few trips I’m very impressed with the timeliness and accuracy of the information it can provide.

Ice Probe with 20mm webbing strap attached to yield an effective length of about 160 cm, 60 inches. The probe has been lightly tossed like a harpoon. With the new 6 cm ice failing on the first toss.
Ice Probe with 20mm webbing strap attached to yield an effective length of about 160 cm, 60 inches. The probe has been lightly tossed like a harpoon. With the new 6 cm ice failing on the first toss.

The primary components of the ice probe are a shortened segment of aluminum Nordic ski pole, and a length of steel rod. Combined the weight is around 500 grams. Given the anticipated harsh service I opted for creating a single pole that does not extend or retract. The potential for unwanted corrosion of dissimilar metals is minimized (perhaps eliminated) by the separation of aluminum and steel with self-fusing heat shrink tubing around the steel rod. The steel rod is then driven inside the segment of ski pole.

Wouldn't be a Bikepackers Foundry item if there weren't at least two uses. Ice probe, and bike stand, etc. :)
Wouldn’t be a Bikepackers Foundry item if there weren’t at least two uses. Ice probe, and bike stand, etc. 🙂
A brief video of how I’m using and carrying the ice probe.